Valletta - Day 11 Saturday February 7

Malta has been inhabited since 5000 B.C. It was colonized by the Phoenicians in 1000 B.C. After that, the islands were inhabited in turn by the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and the Spanish, who handed them over to the Knights of the Order of St. John in a "perpetual lease" in 1533; this lasted until Napoleon seized control in 1798. The Maltese did not like the French, rebelled, received aid from Great Britain, and became a part of the British Empire in 1814. In 1964, Malta was granted independence, and in 1974 became a republic under the British Commonwealth. Quite a history!

We chose to take the included Viking excursion for Valletta this morning, a cruise along Malta’s coastline. Cruising the harbor of Valletta feels like a trip back in time. The journey is so atmospheric. We passed walls pockmarked from cannon fire, impressive architecture, as well as scenes of modern life.

From the Grand Harbor, we sailed in and out of small "creeks" with fabulous views of the legacies of the Knights of Malta, including Fort Ricasoli and Fort Angelo, which withstood invasion from the Turks during the Great Siege of Malta.

For whatever reason, I love this photo.

The water was beautiful, as was the weather.

Look what we stumbled upon!

It looks like Saturday is laundry day.

How cool is the Esplora Planetarium?

A few additional views.

We did not return to the ship, but instead took the Barrakka Lift, the elevator (and bridge) that connects sea level to the upper level of Valletta. It would have been quite a hike!

At times, I felt as if we had been sent in the cartoon "Way Back" machine.

With a destination in mind, we passed a few interesting sights along the way...

And where were we headed? St John’s Co-Cathedral. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but these knights had some serious money.

Built as the Church for the Knights of St John, the building is made of limestone gilded with 24K gold. There is a LOT of sparkle here. It is stunning.

The entry to the nave sets expectations high.

So very much to look at...

There is so much detail that it would be easy to miss some of the whimsy, such as this overachieving cherub.

Some views of the main altar:

The altarpiece features the baptism of Christ by St. John.

The vaulted ceiling was amazing. The whole experience was visual overload.

The many side chapels reflect the homelands of the Knights.

Of course, fan favorite, St Michael the Archangel

The floors are older versions of the style we admired so much in Mdina. The first one is at the entry to the cathedral, with a message to hit you over the head.

And if all this is not enough, a definite highlight was the opportunity to view two works by Caravaggio. (I have been a fan since Art History 101.) The famous "Beheading of John the Baptist" is Caravaggio's largest (and most realistically gruesome) painting (12’ x 17’) and the only one he ever signed. It was commissioned for the back wall of the sacristy of the cathedral.

The other is "St. Jerome Writing."

So, only because I am able to laugh at myself, I will share the bit of drama that is only funny now. Our years of travel have taught us that thieves are always waiting for moments of diversion, and we are subsequently very, very careful with our belongings in public places. Charlie (like every visitor) had to carry his backpack in front of him in the cathedral, and after some time like this, wanted to adjust the straps, which required assistance. Shortly after we were finished with this production, I realized that my cell phone was not in my pocket. So, we found a bench, I sat down, dumped my handbag, rechecked my jacket and pant pockets, and it was not to be found. Let the adrenaline surge. We reported it to the lovely security department, just in case it had dropped and someone might return it. I felt sick. The guard suggested that Charlie call the phone, but I was not optimistic because I knew that I had the ringer off. But, he did..and suddenly, my nether regions were vibrating with joy and relief. In my rush to assist, when I thought I had put the phone in my pants pocket. I had slipped it in the waistband of my pants, where it migrated south. Only me!

We stopped for lunch at Casa Soto. Pizzas and flatbreads are extremely popular here.

Then, a leisurely walk back to the lift and down to the ship. Sailaway was at 6 PM.

Tonight’s dinner was at The Restaurant. I had a Caesar salad and Charlie had bean soup for our starters, and I had a delicious piece of sea bream while Charlie enjoyed the veal tenderloin. We ordered a Maltese dessert, and we are still uncertain of how to describe that dark cake-like thing that nobody liked.

The expected Broadway show was this evening, and after that an early bedtime.

Photos are tagged Star and Valletta_26