Viking Star

Civitavecchia is the cruise port to access Rome, but we know from experience that reaching Rome involves around a 90-minute drive, so we opted to pass on the 8.5 hour bus trip to Rome, especially as today is the oh-so-tedious packing day for disembarkation. And, by the way, as part of our Viking air package, we will disembark Viking Star at 4:15 AM tomorrow. Yes, you read that correctly.

Instead, we chose an afternoon excursion that departed the ship at 2 PM, figuring that we could get most of the packing squared away in the morning, avoid a long bus ride, and enjoy something completely new to us. Sadly, I went alone, as Charlie is still hurting.

It was a treat to enjoy the World Cafe buffet for breakfast and lunch when most of the guests are off the ship!

And now, off to the ancient city of Tarquinia, about a 25 minute drive from the port.

As we exited the port, we passed Forte Michelangelo, named for the artist who designed the central tower.

En route, we passed this very well preserved 1724 aqueduct. It runs for 1.5 km. and was used for about a century.

Our guide noted that these trees should not blossom until early May. As this is a very agricultural area, she expressed concern about climate changes with growing seasons.

Now, the main event: Founded in 449 BC, Tarquinia was the principal metropolis of the twelve cities of the Etruscan League that thrived here long before the rise of the Roman Empire. We explored the Etruscan Necropolises, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Dating from the 7th to the 2nd centuries BC, the necropolis contains about 6,000 burials.


The Villanovan culture (c. 1100–700 BC) was the precursor to the Etruscans. They cremated their dead, and buried them in pods such as these.

In contrast, the Etruscans had a strong belief in the afterlife and shared the Egyptian idea that the (wealthy) dead should be buried with everything that they might need or enjoy in their next life. 
In Tarquinia, the practice of decorating the tombs of aristocratic families with paintings continued for a long period of time. There are some 200 burial chambers that feature frescoed walls with both magical and religious scenes in lively colors, chosen to bring the deceased back to life. At present, there are 22 hypogea (underground chambers) currently open to the public. We visited three.

The Tomb of the Jugglers:

The Tomb of the Hunters:

and The Tomb of the Lotus:

Here are a few signs for tombs that we did not visit:

Outside the city’s ancient quarters, we visited the 15th-century Palazzo Vitelleschi, whose galleries and cloistered courtyard displayed an extensive collection recovered from the tombs.

Here are some recreated tombs...take your jewelry with you, ladies.

There was quite an assortment of Etruscan sarcophagi. The marble ones are particularly stunning.

The "lids" offer us glimpses into the countenance of the inhabitants.

It is astonishing that these things remained so very well preserved.

These winged terra-cotta horses hint at the high degree of artistry that was prevalent in Etruscan society.

The wealthy Etruscans prized Greek pottery (which they had access to as they lived so close to a merchant port), so lots and lots of pieces were found in their burial places.

And, clearly, some of them had some colorful interests.

We had a half-hour to wander this lovely town, and enjoy the sunset.

Back to the ship by 6 PM to shower and dress for the last supper onboard

Charlie had Lapskaus, a Norwegian beef soup and duck breast, while I chose mushroom risotto and a citrus poached halibut.

Luggage was out before the 10 PM deadline and we set our alarms for 3 AM. yikes!

Photos are tagged Star and Tarquinia

We have been fortunate enough to visit Naples on three previous occasions, and every time, the highlight of our trip has been eating pizza. Seriously, this is all you need to know about our priorities and why we will never be thin. The pizza here is ethereal, and I say that as someone who grew up eating pizza in Connecticut...which raises the bar high. IYKYK.

We had decided to take today's Viking included walking tour, but Charlie did not feel up to hours of walking and standing, so he requested that I go on my own.

Our group left the ship at 9:30 AM, to explore Naples with a guide. The whole port area is under construction as they are building underground tunnels to cross the roads.

Here is Castel Nuovo, the fortress that served as a residence for the kings of Anjou and Aragon, and the Spanish Viceroys of Naples.

We passed the Opera House

In Piazza Municipio, directly in front of Palazzo San Giacomo (Naples City Hall), we saw Bernini's Fontana del Nettuno/Neptune.

Above it, high on the hill, sits the medieval Castel Sant'Elmo.

We strolled the pedestrian Piazza del Plebiscito, flanked by the Royal Palace of Naples (front and back views)...

the Church of St. Francis...

and whatever these building are (someone is burning out).

We entered the 19th-century Galleria Umberto, a popular place for the Neapolitans to linger over coffee and shop.

it’s pretty bold for Starbucks to come to Italy to peddle coffee!

As part of the tour, we were offered espresso and sfogliatella pastry. Delicious!

We had some free time, and I found a pharmacy to get Charlie some pain patches for his back and took a few photos along the way. There are so many food vendors offering take-away treats.

Charlie wanted to test out his walking stamina to get some pizza for lunch. We chose a place relatively close to the port. It was not sublime.

This evening, it was “Taste of Italy Night” in the World Cafe (buffet). The menu enticed us to go. The chef was so proud of the fact that that they had ordered and picked up homemade buffalo mozzarella this afternoon. It was absolutely delicious. I could have made a meal just at this table...

...but, there was also homemade Pasta Carbonara. So, that had to be tasted.

After dinner, we went to the Captain’s Farewell Toast and a Beatles’ Songbook show.

Photos are tagged Star and Naples_26

We finally made it to Mamsen’s for breakfast. This small eatery honors the matriarch of the Hagen family, and serves Scandinavian treats. I enjoyed the classic waffle with brown cheese, while Charlie had some assorted pastries. A good sugar rush to be sure.

We were greeted at the harbor by this statue of the Virgin Mary, who has been the protector of Messina ever since its inhabitants became Christians in 42 AD. Those of you still persevering with this blog deserve the backstory...the quote that you see at the bottom of the column, “Vos et ipsam civitatem benedicimus” (I bestow my benediction upon you and your city) is said to be taken from a letter that was sent by the Virgin Mary to the people of Messina. Let’s just go with it....

We opted to take the included panoramic tour today because we have been in Messina before and recognize that this is Italy, and few things will be open on a Sunday.

We boarded the coach and set out on a short drive along the north coast of Messina, enjoying views of the Ganzirri Lakes and the Capo Peloro. These saltwater lakes are used by fishermen to breed clams and mussels, which feature heavily in the local cuisine. (Note the farm markers)

All along the shores are (empty) beach clubs and restaurants and pretty water views.

Here is a less than optimal bus-window pictures of the fountain of Neptune. We had planned to walk back to see it later in the day, but that did not happen.

We also passed City Hall...

...and the Theater of Messina.

Before beginning our walking tour of the Old Town, we visited a cafe, where we had granita, a cannoli, and a restroom stop.

Who can resist checking out the display cases?

This is the beautiful Church of the Santissima Annunziata dei Catalani. It was built during the 12th century by the Normans on the site of an ancient temple that had been dedicated to Neptune. Its architecture showcases a unique blend of Arab-Norman-Byzantine styles, reflecting Sicily’s diverse cultural influences over the centuries. The church is one of a few structures in Messina to survive the 1908 earthquake, which explains why it sits ten feet below the current street level.  The exterior is adorned with intricate stone carvings and arches that tell stories of Sicily’s past rulers.

Here is Don John of Austria who bravely defeated the Ottomans and is apparently a big deal here.

The city is known for its eclectic architecture.

Messina's most notable attraction is its Duomo and the Astronomical Clock in the Campanile. On the side, there is a zodiac clock, and an angel points to the time and date.

On the front, each day at noon, there is a 12-minute show.

It begins with the lion roaring three times. His tail moves as his mouth opens.

Then, the cock crows three times, accompanied by wing flaps.

This scene changes according to the liturgical season. Until Lent begins, the Magi are still visiting the stable.

This level looks like a pile of sand until a dove marks the parameters in which the Virgin Mary has requested that a church be built in her honor. Suddenly, the church rises from the sand. This second shot is the actual church that can be seen from the Duomo.

Finally, figures depicting the life span from infant to the aged circle around a skeleton. Time marches on, and this is your reminder to get yourself to church.

It was quite a show!

Our final tour stop was the Fontana d’Orione (Orion Fountain), constructed by Giovanni Montorsoli, a student of Michelangelo. The fountain commemorates the construction of Messina’s aqueduct, the first in Sicily to provide running water to its residents.

At this point, we chose to remain in Messina rather than return to the ship.

The Duomo of Messina was partially destroyed by an earthquake at the beginning of 20th century and then suffered from heavy bombing during WWII, but has been rebuilt.

It was the site of today's drama...perhaps the message is to stay out of churches? As Mass was in process, we crept in the back, and I was taking a quiet zoom lens photo, while Charlie stood in the back of the church. All of a sudden, a man with a dog on a leash went flying by Charlie, causing him to take a step back (but not up)...onto a raised marble step. All I heard was a crash and a big grunt. People came running to assist, and the fall initially took his breath away, which was very scary. Thank God he did not hit his head, but took the brunt on his back. A few men helped him up and we sat on folding chairs in the back of the church until we felt less rattled. Charlie did not want any medical assessment (IS ANYONE SURPRISED??), so we walked back to the ship and he rested with ice. I think it is time for us to go home!

At sail away, this pilot boat accompanied us as we navigated the Strait of Messina, which separates Sicily and Calabria. (FYI: Here, at Messina, the narrow strait is three miles wide, but it is less than two miles wide at its most narrow point...which is why we had the pilot for such a long stretch.)

Charlie felt up to getting dressed for our dinner reservation, a second visit to the Chef's Table, this time for the Xiang menu. Interestingly, the rice for the wok dish arrived inside a fragrant lotus leaf, and then we mixed it in with the beef and veggies. It was all delicious, but the absolute star of the menu was this AMAZING mango dessert. Sublime!

Photos are tagged Star and Messina_26

Malta has been inhabited since 5000 B.C. It was colonized by the Phoenicians in 1000 B.C. After that, the islands were inhabited in turn by the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, and the Spanish, who handed them over to the Knights of the Order of St. John in a "perpetual lease" in 1533; this lasted until Napoleon seized control in 1798. The Maltese did not like the French, rebelled, received aid from Great Britain, and became a part of the British Empire in 1814. In 1964, Malta was granted independence, and in 1974 became a republic under the British Commonwealth. Quite a history!

We chose to take the included Viking excursion for Valletta this morning, a cruise along Malta’s coastline. Cruising the harbor of Valletta feels like a trip back in time. The journey is so atmospheric. We passed walls pockmarked from cannon fire, impressive architecture, as well as scenes of modern life.

From the Grand Harbor, we sailed in and out of small "creeks" with fabulous views of the legacies of the Knights of Malta, including Fort Ricasoli and Fort Angelo, which withstood invasion from the Turks during the Great Siege of Malta.

For whatever reason, I love this photo.

The water was beautiful, as was the weather.

Look what we stumbled upon!

It looks like Saturday is laundry day.

How cool is the Esplora Planetarium?

A few additional views.

We did not return to the ship, but instead took the Barrakka Lift, the elevator (and bridge) that connects sea level to the upper level of Valletta. It would have been quite a hike!

At times, I felt as if we had been sent in the cartoon "Way Back" machine.

With a destination in mind, we passed a few interesting sights along the way...

And where were we headed? St John’s Co-Cathedral. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but these knights had some serious money.

Built as the Church for the Knights of St John, the building is made of limestone gilded with 24K gold. There is a LOT of sparkle here. It is stunning.

The entry to the nave sets expectations high.

So very much to look at...

There is so much detail that it would be easy to miss some of the whimsy, such as this overachieving cherub.

Some views of the main altar:

The altarpiece features the baptism of Christ by St. John.

The vaulted ceiling was amazing. The whole experience was visual overload.

The many side chapels reflect the homelands of the Knights.

Of course, fan favorite, St Michael the Archangel

The floors are older versions of the style we admired so much in Mdina. The first one is at the entry to the cathedral, with a message to hit you over the head.

And if all this is not enough, a definite highlight was the opportunity to view two works by Caravaggio. (I have been a fan since Art History 101.) The famous "Beheading of John the Baptist" is Caravaggio's largest (and most realistically gruesome) painting (12’ x 17’) and the only one he ever signed. It was commissioned for the back wall of the sacristy of the cathedral.

The other is "St. Jerome Writing."

So, only because I am able to laugh at myself, I will share the bit of drama that is only funny now. Our years of travel have taught us that thieves are always waiting for moments of diversion, and we are subsequently very, very careful with our belongings in public places. Charlie (like every visitor) had to carry his backpack in front of him in the cathedral, and after some time like this, wanted to adjust the straps, which required assistance. Shortly after we were finished with this production, I realized that my cell phone was not in my pocket. So, we found a bench, I sat down, dumped my handbag, rechecked my jacket and pant pockets, and it was not to be found. Let the adrenaline surge. We reported it to the lovely security department, just in case it had dropped and someone might return it. I felt sick. The guard suggested that Charlie call the phone, but I was not optimistic because I knew that I had the ringer off. But, he did..and suddenly, my nether regions were vibrating with joy and relief. In my rush to assist, when I thought I had put the phone in my pants pocket. I had slipped it in the waistband of my pants, where it migrated south. Only me!

We stopped for lunch at Casa Soto. Pizzas and flatbreads are extremely popular here.

Then, a leisurely walk back to the lift and down to the ship. Sailaway was at 6 PM.

Tonight’s dinner was at The Restaurant. I had a Caesar salad and Charlie had bean soup for our starters, and I had a delicious piece of sea bream while Charlie enjoyed the veal tenderloin. We ordered a Maltese dessert, and we are still uncertain of how to describe that dark cake-like thing that nobody liked.

The expected Broadway show was this evening, and after that an early bedtime.

Photos are tagged Star and Valletta_26

We awoke to this balcony view.

Our goal today is to visit Mdina, a fortified city in the northern region of the island of Malta. Mdina is known as “The Silent City” and has been described as “frozen in time.” At present, it has some 250 residents. People have lived on Mdina’s land since ancient times. After the fall of the Roman Empire, a city wall was erected to make the town smaller and easier to protect. Mdina served as Malta's capital until the Arab period in the 9th century, when the capital was moved to Valletta. The town initially languished, but made a comeback around 1049 when a Muslim community moved in and built a city that resembled a traditional Arabic city (medina), hence the name Mdina. OK, enough history... let's check it out.

We took an Uber and were dropped off outside the city walls, as only residents can drive within.

Our entry through Mdina Gate felt very familiar - you may recognize it as Kings Landing from Game of Thrones. The gate is entered via a bridge over the large moat.

All the roads and buildings were constructed with local stone, which gives Mdina a very distinctive and unified appearance.

The first thing that one sees is the Dungeons Museum (which I felt could be perceived as mildly threatening). It has been described as gruesome, so we passed, even though the dungeon master looks a little like Yul Brynner.

The Museum of Natural History is housed in the former Palazzo Vilhena. And, yes, there will be a lot of Maltese crosses.

Here is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Malta, also known as St. Paul’s Cathedral. It’s said that this cathedral was built on the spot where the Roman governor Publius met St. Paul after he was shipwrecked on Malta around 60 A.D. Here is a little Catholic nugget: After Paul healed Publius' sick father, Publius converted to Christianity and became Malta's first bishop, which established a strong Christian tradition on the island.

The cathedral was badly damaged in the 1693 earthquake, so it has a brighter and more modern appearance than many of the European cathedrals.

The marble floors are particularly stunning. Somer mark burial spots and others are memorials.

Here is the main altar area.

The painting that celebrates the Annunciation was striking in its simplicity.

I think that you will agree that these are some very impressive side altars!

Next door is a museum, which contains the usual church art, lots of silver...

...and (unexpectedly) more than 60 prints by Albrecht Dürer. Here is just one (the annunciation).

I was fascinated with the fine detail on these "altar stones" (which are actually tiny).

We have seen these before in Europe, but this display was particularly vivid. Known as the Neapolitan crib, the tradition traces its origins to Naples as early as 1025. It is much more than a seasonal display, and has been described as, "a theatrical masterpiece of sacred storytelling"

Kappella ta’ Sant’ Agata was built by a noble family in the 15th century. After being destroyed by an earthquake in 1693, it was rebuilt the following year.

The Carmelite Priory and Church of the Annunciation of Our Lady is a beautiful place. We spotted evidence of early Catholic graft: There was a sign that informed us that reciting a Hail Mary in front of the statue at the entrance will provide 40 days of plenary indulgence...and today, we did not even have to PAY for it.

The elliptical-shaped dome depicts the Assumption of Mary, from which the church takes its name. Above the main altar is a painting titled “The Brown Scapular," an item that holds a special significance in the Carmelite faith.

Palazzo Falson was once home to Olof ("I like warm hugs") Gollcher, a collector who filled his home with things he loved. It is now home to the Fontanella Tea Garden, said to serve the most delicious cakes in Malta. (I'll bite.) We had a slice of yummy carrot cake with dates.

The Tea Garden has the highest vantage point in the city, and leads to Bastion Square, where on a clear day like today, you can see Valletta…

… and the Mosta Dome in the distance from the ramparts.

The Pjazza Mesquita, with its distinctive well, served as Littlefinger’s Brothel in "Game of Thrones."

I am a lover of doors. There may be some deep psychological reason for this, but please enjoy these. I will start with a door that is an Instagram star according to my research; check out “blue door of Malta.” (PS There are even more in the Photo Gallery!)

Let’s not forget door knockers.

I loved this place so much that I cannot resist posting these photos. Feel free to just pass them by.

The Greek's Gate was the only Mdina gate that provided entry for slaves, and it was our exit gate.

You may be finished, but we were not.

We then walked to Rabat, a town of over 11,000 residents, which is about a ten-minute walk from Mdina. The word "rabat" is Arabic for "suburb."

There, we visited St Paul’s Grotto: the first part of a complex that included a church (which I entered through an open side door and was promptly informed that the church was closed)… I had taken one interior subpar photo.

Then, we explored the catacombs. First, we visited the chapel that leads to the cave where Saint Paul was imprisoned after his shipwreck.

We may have to accept that we are getting too old to be climbing through catacombs.

There were also bomb shelters below.

Our ticket also included admission to the Wingnacourt Museum. We moved through quickly, but I loved this sculpture of Dante’s Inferno.

And how about this coffin?

We walked a block to St Agatha Crypt, which was brightly decorated.

But, at this point. with 14,000 steps and one catacomb climb, we did not take the tour.

Time for a stop for a very late lunch in a charming little restaurant. These sandwiches are typical for the area, and too big to finish (unlike the local wine and beer).

We took an uber back to the ship, stretched out on the bed, and then went to a grilled dinner on the pool deck. High marks for the lobster tails.

Super Day!

Photos are tagged Star, Mdina, Rabat and Valletta_26